Just west of Los Alamos in north-central New Mexico, the Jemez Mountains serve up some of the best gravel riding we’ve done — and we don’t say that lightly. Picture this: smooth forest roads, towering cerros, geothermal wonders, and the occasional prairie dog. Also, a supervolcano. No big deal.
We packed in three memorable rides in the Jemez, each with its own terrain, views, and occasional lung-burning climb. Nothing more intense than Day 3 of Angel Fire. Here’s how they shook out:
1. Valles Caldera
100% gravel – 24.2 miles – 1,203 feet elevation – about 2 hours
This was the highlight of the trip. Full stop.
The Valles Caldera National Preserve is 88,000 acres of volcanic terrain, high-altitude meadows, geothermal activity, and epic gravel. Riding here felt like stepping onto another planet — one with better scenery and less cell service.
We parked at the visitor center, hopped on the bikes, and rode a loop that felt like it kept going forever (in the best way). The route starts through a historic cabin district before opening into vast valleys and ridges of cerros (volcanic domes). The gravel was a bit rutty in places but manageable. Moderate rolling hills and scenery that doesn’t quit.
Bonus: curious prairie dogs. No extra charge.
2. San Antonio Mountain Circuit
78% gravel – 21.6 miles – 1,799 feet elevation – about 2 hours
A solid loop with a little bit of everything: geothermal features, optional hot spring soak, and a few leg-crushing climbs.
Starting near La Cueva off Highway 4, the ride loops through the western edge of Valles Caldera Preserve. Expect killer views and the unmistakable aroma of Sulphur Springs. (nature’s cologne). A fun fact we learned post-ride: Sulphur Springs was a health spa resort until it burned down in the ’70s.
The route includes a stretch of singletrack, a series of ranch gates and a possible stop at San Antonio Hot Springs if you time things right. We didn’t — sunset won — but next time, we’re packing swimwear.
3. Gilman Tunnels Loop
39% gravel – 43.2 miles – 3,016 feet elevation – about 3.5 hours
Start high. Coast down. Then climb forever. This was our toughest ride in the Jemez.
The route winds through the Guadalupe Box — a red granite canyon featuring the Gilman Tunnels, relics from a 1920s logging railroad. They’re narrow, dramatic, and worth the detour (but heads-up for traffic).
Other highlights? Jemez Soda Dam and Battleship Rock along Highway 4 — two impressive natural formations and solid excuses for a break mid-climb.
If we could redo it? Start with the uphill and enjoy the long descent to the finish. We’re not above learning lessons the hard way.