Located west of Los Alamos in north central New Mexico, the Jemez Mountains are rife with opportunities for gravel biking. The mountains are part of the Santa Fe National Forest, featuring a surplus of gravel forest roads that crisscross the area in between hot springs, waterfalls, and a SUPERVOLCANO.
While in the area, we were fortunate to enjoy three gravel rides in the Jemez. All had beautiful views and some unique sights, while one had a pretty intense climb. Nothing more intense than Day 3 of Angel Fire.
1. Valles Caldera
100% gravel – 24.2 miles – 1,203 feet elevation – about 2 hours
This was the highlight of our trip. Full stop.
The majestic beauty of this preserve and the never-ending gravel roads throughout were a true gravel biker’s paradise. We could’ve spent all day here – if only we were in better shape.
Valles Caldera National Preserve is an 88,000-acre park on the site of a volcanic eruption that occurred almost 1.2 million years ago. That in itself is hard to comprehend. But what can be seen today is a dormant caldera with hot springs, large meadows (valles) and volcanic domes (cerros) spread throughout the preserve. It was a different view around every turn with roads worth exploring.
To start the ride, we parked at the preserve’s visitor center, about 0.5 miles through the main entrance. From there, we left on our bikes. The gravel road did get a bit “rutty” from tractor tires that maintain the road, but it wasn’t too bad. There were a few moderate hills, but no significant climbs.
And did I mention the views? From the historic cabin district that kicks off the ride to the cerros on either side of the road and occasional head of a local prairie dog, you just couldn’t beat the location.
2. San Antonio Mountain Circuit
78% gravel – 21.6 miles – 1,799 feet elevation – about 2 hours
This loop around San Antonio Mountain had it all – stunning views, varied riding terrain, and fascinating features along the way. Masochists can add a leg-crushing climb up to the peak of San Antonio Mountain. But, even without that side quest this route was amazing.
Starting from State Highway 4 near La Cueva, the loop takes you through the west side of the open spaces Valles Caldera National Preserve. Here you can find (and maybe first smell) the bubbling mudpots at Sulphur Springs. After the ride I learned that Sulphur Springs was used as a health resort spa for many decades until it burned down in the 1970s.
If planned right, you can hop off your bike for a short hike and dip in San Antonio Hot Springs. Sadly, I was rushing the sunset and was not able to hit the hot springs. The incredible views along the route though, made up for my lack of planning.
From a biking standpoint, there was a variety of terrain. The smoothest of which was a two-mile stretch of singletrack. Gates at the Valles Caldera National Preserve’s boundaries required some maneuvering around, but in the end no big deal.
3. Gilman Tunnels Loop
39% gravel – 43.2 miles – 3,016 feet elevation – about 3.5 hours
For starters, this ride has absolutely spectacular scenery. But between beginning the ride at the highest elevation along the route, and a distance/climbing combination at the limits of my fitness, it turned into a humbling experience quickly. At a minimum, it was a much needed lesson not to begin a ride with a long sustained downhill and finish with a massive climb.
The highlight of this route is rolling through the red granite of the Guadalupe Box. The Gilman Tunnels, two tunnels carved out in the 1920s for a logging route, only add to the experience of the canyon. Keep an eye out for cars as the tunnels are quite narrow.
On the route north of Jemez Springs are a couple of distinct landmarks, the Jemez Soda Dam and Battleship Rock. Both are incredible sights along State Highway 4, and a welcome distraction (not to mention natural break points) along the massive climb on this route.
I highly recommend this sensible alternate route instead of my harebrained version – you’ll start with the climb and end with the downhill.